Blog 4 & 5: Hair Design Practice: Crimping, Backcombing, Padding and Curling the hair

Hair Design Practice: Crimping, Backcombing and Curling 

We looked into Elizabethan times and how crimp and curls were used in their hair designs and who would be wearing these hairstyles, we researched and found it was royalty who had the frizzed hair and tightly curled hair. The ideal hair was considered  to be fair or red in colour and preferably naturally curled which was inspired by the Queen herself. 

I researched how back in 16th Century how they created these hair designs and I found out they used metal hair pins where the hair would be woven into the create curls. Frizzed hair was wired and padded to create the very round or heart shape effect of the hair around the hair. 

I found out women in the Elizabethan era would supplement their own hair with natural hair pieces from horse or even children's hair, I found is strange but realised we use real hair for extensions in modern day, but using children's hair this shocked me. However, they would use the hair pieces to keep their hair big, frizzed and it would help hold the shape for a long period of time, also their hair was damaged from colouring and lead used in the hair so they had to use a hair supplement to get the ideal, perfect royalty hair style. 

I researched Frizzed and curled hair styles during the Elizabethan times:

Reference: I took this photo off the screen at the National Gallery of Elizabeth I

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02077/Queen-Elizabeth-I

Elizabeth was known who her idealistic hair styles, everyone wanted to look like her. You can see her frizzed, rounded shaped hair designs and she clearly reflects the ideal royalty hair designs, it is bold and truly makes a statement.

Lady Harington 1585-1590

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/350014202261639301/

I found this portrait of Lady Harington and it shows a great image of how they wore their hair or I believe this could of even been a hair piece as it looks very frizzed and structured. It shows the ideal Elizabethan hairstyle in a neat frizzed heart shape. I see a lot of royalty especially the women with fair hair or red hair in portraits, this was the ideal hair colouring that reflected your power and wealth.

Myself practicing Backcombing to create the big, bold look.

I first sectioned the hair into small sections and backcombed by working my brush in a downwards motion against the hair to create the effect, to create volume and lift of the hair in order to fold into a Elizabethan style. I did this to the top section of the hair to create this look, at first I found it a little difficult to keep the hair upright without flopping, this was because I used too much hair to backcomb, so therefore used small pieces of hair which worked well. We found a lot of volume was used in hair designs in throughout the 16th century, so by backcombing it gave us the look we were going for.

We then went onto crimping and back combing the hair, first of all we sectioned the hair, as this is very important to give your hair great structure and a guideline on how to position your design. 

Crimped hair, after this was complete I gave it a brush which gave it that frizzy look 'Elizabethan effect', it was very wild and big and felt it was easier to manage when doing buns and in general creating different looks. I felt crimping really help with the reflection of the Elizabethan era, frizz, volume, great shape and very round and full. After crimping the hair I backcombed under neath towards the base to give it an extra lift and fix, we then used two methods to roll either side of the hair over to see the difference in the effects it gave. First both a french plait either side of the middle part of the head to fix the hair to it, one side was just backcombed which gave a more free, mad, out of control look and the other side I used a 'roll' for the hair to roll with which gave it a more round structured look compared to the back comb. I liked the look of both methods but I preferred the wildness of the backcomb alone, as I feel this would give a more contemporary feel to it, I felt the other method was harder, but didn't like it as much. 

Crimp and padding

Crimped Hair, right hand side with the use of backcombing and the left hand side with the use of the padding to create the rounded look. I felt the padding create a tidier look and more of a precise rounded creation and the right with the use of backcomb was bigger, bolder with more volume with really working the backcomb into the roots. I liked both, but preferred the backcombing as I felt this would be more ideal for my contemporary version of the classic Elizabethan style.  

The padding which gave it a smoother rounded appearance as you can see, even though I found ti harder to do but I feel this is a better effect for a traditional Elizabethan design.

Crimped Hair, Big and Bold

Two different sides from the back

Right hand side with the use of padding and the left hand side with backcombing.

From the front on angle:

Left with roll/ padding and right with backcomb

Practicing Curled hair Techniques

On one of our first weeks we practiced and learnt how to curl hair in different ways, firstly we learnt how to section the hair to structure the lifted rolled curls as seen in the below photograph. We worked from the bottom of the hair to the top, using the side of the curling tongs and using a lifting technique to give the root of the curls a lift giving the design more volume; between each curled section I pinned each curl with a grip to keep the curl in place when carrying on with the other sections of the hair. I enjoyed carrying this out and it was a technique that I had never tried and I liked the effect this curl gave, making the hair more volumised in the roots. 

On the other side of the head we carried out twisted the hair vertically around the curling tongs in alternate directions one after the other to create spiral curls, we did this to see the difference in using different techniques with the curling tongs. After curling each piece of hair it was pinned also to keep the curl in place and taken out when the whole head was completed with curls. 

This is important to keep the tightness effect of the curls

A photograph of a front on view of the both different style of curls created with the curling tongs using a different technique. 

Barreled curls created with the curling tongs held in a horizontal way to create this effect and pinned to hold. 

Another photograph of the curled sectioned pinned to hold the effect in place once the whole head design is complete.

The horizontal barrel curls created with the curling tongs working from the bottom section to the top and each one pinned to hold the curls, to stop them from dropping out.

Spiraled curls created with the curling tongs

Loose spiraled curls created with using the curling tongs in a vertical way in alternate ways to spiral into one another to create this beautiful effect. 

Curling was very popular during the Elizabethan era, especially tight curls which were pinned to the head, it was important for us to see how each technique made the curl outcome different. 

Contemporary Versions of crimped, curled and backcombed hair designs

Contemporary frizzed, backcombed and curled hair used in an Elizabethan style but with a twist, these are photographs I found that show the 19th century period hairstyles but with a modern feel with use of crimp, curls and backcombing. I especially liked these photographs below, which I found in books, articles and on internet sites. These really show Elizabethan style in a different alternative way but still using frizz, curls and rounded hair styles to reflect the Elizabethan inspired theme but making the designs more ellaborate in a messy, uneven textured way which shows the modern twist; However, but still keeping with the Elizabethan theme. 

David La Chapelle- Book: La Chapelle Land Unknow model 

David La Chapelle- Book: La Chapelle Land

Contemporary frizzed hairstyle by David La Chapelle, which reminds me of the Elizabethan era because of the big frizzed hair which sticks out, it's elaborate, big and bold, you can also see different textures in the hair which go in different directions which takes a modern twist the original Elizabethan style, which I really like. In both the above image and below images of David's reflect a modern twist with Elizabethan well.

Also the use of the pale skin and blocked out eyebrows works with the Elizabethan Era, along with the laced outfits. I love how adventurous and quirky his work is and how he reflects the Elizabethan Era well. 

The below image shows you the contemporary version of frizzed Elizabethan inspired hair designs, you can see the difference between the 16th century portraits of their frizzed hair styles and how tightly, rounded and neat their hair styles were and how tightly curled and pinned the overall style was in comparison with the modern take; where it shows clearly the curls are loose and more texture with a wilder design which is uneven and not neat. 

I especially like this photograph as I believe it takes the Elizabethan design to the extreme with the use of eccentric, frizzed, a lot of texture and technique to create this modern version of Elizabethan. 

Unknown Model

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/304626362266466314/

http://finefettleguide.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/fashion-photography-living-doll.html

Model: Lily Cole

You can throughout the images the use of crimping to create the Elizabethan frizzed hair, curls and use of backcombing to create volume in the hair, I also believe hair pieces and extensions were used also during these modern day shoots to create these Elizabethan inspired hair designs. I researched into modern day Elizabethan hair designs but in a modern way and found a lot of runway shows, fashion shows and models were recreating their own take on the Elizabethan look inspired by the Queen herself (Elizabeth). 

References: 

http://www.freestylemagazine.co.uk/blog/2011/03/04/lfw-highlights-of-day-1

Models: unknown

This runway photograph of the Elizabethan version shows padding and backcombing to create the desired look, I love how they've kept the shape rounded and dips in the middle to create a messy heart like shape, which was popular during the Elizabethan period but created in a neater way with use of tightly, frizzed like texture curls to create that; but now you see the modern version creating the shape with a uneven textured way with use of backcomb with pieces of hair falling, giving it a dramatic alternative effect which is designed for the modern day audience. 

   

Blog 2: Buns and Plaits

Buns and Plait work

My first week of hair we were taught a couple different versions of buns with certain techniques. The first bun was by using 4 parts of the ponytail which all meet forming a bun; firstly we sectioned the hair across the head, using the top half and tying it into a ponytail then sectioning it off into 4 sections, with use of slight backcomb in the root giving it volume, with each section then folding each bit and pinning it. I used the closed grips to structure the bun and the large grips to bring in each part together to create the final look for the bun.

Here are the images of my practical of creating this bun on my Katie head.
We used the paddle brush to brush through the hair, the pin comb to section and backcomb the hair, closed bobby pins and parted pins to give the roundness of the bun. I was happy with the way the bun turned out, the shape was good and my sectioning was right, even though at first I found it a little difficult to make the bun smooth without wispy bits of hair coming out of the bun, so when I do this again I will use the back of the comb in order to smooth down the bits of hair and won't backcomb into the front section, as I feel I may have gone into the front part which made the bun not as smooth looking.  

My work on my first practice of the bun from a side angle

Side angle of the bun design

Back view of the bun design

My Second Bun Design- Twisted Bun

The Twisted knot bun, we then went onto using the ponytail hair and wrapping it around creating a bun and pinning it into place, for a tight knot bun effect. Closed grips were used to give the bun structure and hold. I felt comfortable carrying out these simple bun designs, even though I've had no hair experience and with practice it came quiet easy for me and enjoyed doing it. When I do it again in the future I would make sure I really brushed the hair in order to make the appearance smoother and sleeker. However, I was happy with my end results of the bun designs.

Bun Design 3- The Plaited Bun 

I then went onto plaiting the ponytail and wrapping it around to make a bun, I liked the effect of this but was more difficult to pin so it held. I used the closed grips to sturdy the bun and give it hold. We were doing these designs as a lot of buns, plait work was used throughout the Elizabethan times and to master the basic steps in creating a contemporary version of the Elizabethan look will help us develop our skills further. Overall, I was happy with how my bun designs turned out and will most likely use this into my contemporary modern version of Elizabethan hair design.

I felt it a little bit difficult pinning the plaited bun into place without it coming loose, but I figured trying on an actual model may make this easier for myself, overall the design came out as planned, just slightly looser then I anticipated. 

Back view of the plaited bun I created during week one.

After practising this on the Katie head I then practiced this on my model peer in class and it went well, this maybe because her hair was longer but I wanted to try the design on my model to see how it looked in comparison and with practising along the weeks.  

Plaited bun I created, which I really liked especially with the structure of it and with the colours twisted together. This went well and enjoyed seeing how fixed the plait was in comparison to times before where it was looser and I wasn't as happy with but with the practice and mastering the gripping technique it went well and liked the end result.

Examples of Buns used during the Elizabethan times and in the modern day 

                                           

http://www2.springfield.k12.il.us/schools/springfield/eliz/hairstyles.html

During the 16th Century women and men took such pride in their hair designs and they enjoyed making up designs to stand out from others; the more extravagant the better, it all reflected their wealth and royalty status.  The photo above shows plaits that have been worked in the bun at the back of the head with the use of pearls and jewels intwined. Buns back then are as popular as they are today, during the Elizabethan era plaited buns and twisted buns were popular within their hair designs.

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/509469776573483178/

The drawing above shows some designs of buns incorporated into their hair designs with the use of hat wear and other techniques. You can see one of the bun designs with the use of small curls to form the bun. I found researching buns and how popular they were, in order to add texture and makes the hair stand out, as during this era they wanted big and bold, they wanted to make a statement with many techniques and pieces added to give this feel. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/48408484@N08/4440007497/in/photostream/lightbox/

La dama del abanico Author: Sánchez Coello, Alonso Date: 1570 - 1573: Prado Museum

Another image of a portrait, with showing a bun design at the back of her head that look like they were formed with plaits and structured with pearls and jewellery also.  The texture and technique looks very detailed and very pretty with the use of other accessories. 

Contemporary versions of buns but still with an Elizabethan design

http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/cexn-accessories

I found this image that I feel is showing a good example of a bun design which looks Elizabethan with the way it shows volume, boldness and sits straight on top of her head making a statement, which I also feel maybe representing a crown that Queen Elizabeth wore, as it looks like the band of plaits are representing the band of jewels and stones around the crown and the volumised bun represents the crown. Also during the Elizabethan times rounded buns and hair designs were very popular and this reminded me also of this, with the neatness and volume.

However, it shows the contemporary take on the Elizabethan style, with the colouring of the hair, theres no use of gems or jewellery and with the multiple plaits wrapped around the massive bun on top which are representing the queens crown. I really like this design, with the use of backcomb and other techniques to give the bun this rounded volume, especially with the multiple plaits wrapped around, giving the look great structure and neatness. I feel this design is very strong, bold and makes a true statement of contemporary meets Elizabethan well. 

http://fashiongonerogue.com/zhang-jingna-captures-aristocratic-beauty-for-harpers-bazaar-vietnam/

I have also found another photograph of a contemporary bun design that I feel is still Elizabethan, especially with the use of the plait wrapped around to form a bun, as both plaits and buns were a strong hair design during the 16th century. The outfit with the high collars which was also fashionable during the Elizabethan times, works with making this image reflect Elizabethan time. However, I use of the fish tail plait tells me this is a modern day design with the influence of the 16th century incorporated, the design is also very neat and precise with its techniques and during that period this was their aim, they aimed for perfection. I love this hair design and how it shows to myself how they have incorporated a 16th century design and turned it into a modern day design. 

Also looking at this is image, it reminded me of the hats and english hoods the women used to wear and this could be representing one of these accessories, because they were placed in a similar place to where the bun is; therefore the image reminds me of that. 

Plait work- Basic plait, French plait and fish tail plait 

Plait work

During my first weeks practicing french plaits I really struggled and took me a bit of time to perfect the design. It took me a lot of practice to get it, but I have got a lot better as time has gone with practicing. I have included plaits over weeks I have done and I can see vast improvement in the photos which makes me happy. Some people just can do it but this was definitely my weakness from not having previous hair experience. I would say I still need work on side french plaits and to make them neater. I researched and found plait work was used in the Elizabethan era to create curls, waves in their hair and also hair was plaited and pinned across their heads and made into hair pieces.

 I found it difficult to master the french plait, I had to practice a lot to get the correct technique that worked for me. At first I tried the french plait from the centre of the head downwards, as I felt this was easier to follow and to then try a side french plait. You can see with the image below how I struggled with achieving the french plait and I see the difference in how I improved over the weeks with achieving and the desired look of the french plait. 

Week 2 of practicing the French plait and felt fairly confident with the technique shown to me, so went onto trying it across the side of the head and I was happy with the results of this. After doing this practice it made me think of all the plait work that was used during the 16th century and how much was gone into it such a long time ago. I also felt the french plait could represent the corset design, as the corsets were popularly worn underneath gowns in the Elizabethan time by women and the effect of the plait looks like the same technique used to do up a corset.

 

                        Week 2 of French Plaiting side view of a successful french plait

Top view of my successful french plait 

I also carried out a french plait along the hair when it was previously crimped, to give it a frizzed, bolder texture to it. 

       

On one of my hair designs I carried out the french plait into a knotted bun and I really liked the effect it gave and how it looked. I was inspired by many things for this design, manly the corset with using a french plait to create that look and with the bun technique to finish it off. It was simple yet effective, I used crimpers to create the two buns on top of the head as this was very popular during the Elizabethan times, especially with the frizzed effect giving the hair a rounded look. Overall, I was happy with my design and the plait work I achieved in this design.

Fish Tail Plait Practice 

Plaits used in the 16th century and during the modern day

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/439593613601175213/

This is great portrait example of plaits used within a hair design during the 16th century, you can see a few plaits that are either side of the head and across the head, they very neatly done and placed. You come across that all plaits designs used in the Elizabethan times are always neat and securely fitted to the head, whereas during modern times but with still incorporating influences from the 16th century that the plaits are loose and wider and messier, with a contemporary feel. 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/65794844530775144/

Contemporary versions of plaits with Elizabethan inspiration incorporated with the use of volume, curls and the plait, it shows real frizz and boldness which reflects the Elizabethan era.

http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/beauty/make-up-nails/may-issue-beauty-queens-by-carine-roitfeld

Another contemporary version of plaits used in a Elizabethan inspired way. As soon as I saw this image I thought Elizabethan, with the way the plaits are placed in a heart shaped way which was a popular way that women would wear their hair in the shape of, back in the Elizabethan times and I love the way they have structured the plaits this way; it gives a real contemporary feel to it. It is very neat and precise which was key in the 16th century, with its boldness and creativity I really capture the Elizabethan inspiration in this image. 

Practicing different designs with accessories 

This was my first day attempting and playing around with designs and a couple accessories, I feel I am still figuring out how to do certain plaits and more practice is needed  e.g. french plaits and fish plaits. First of all I attempted small plaited buns across the front of the hair line, the small buns represented small roses, as they were used during the Elizabethan era and Tudor times (The Tudor rose) and wanted to incorporate those into my hair design. A lot of ribbon, pearls were used during them times and I wanted to somehow include these in my design as well as having a contemporary twist along with the Elizabethan style.

I want to next time entwine the beads tightly into the french plait and for the plait to become neater along with the twisted bun at the end where the plait ends, this will happen due to practice. A lot of plait work was used during the Elizabethan time and I want to include a lot of plait work into the hair. I am still learning skills and practicing different designs and testing designs, I but I like the design of the small plaited buns as I want this to look like part of a crown to represent royalty.

This was my first week trying out plaits and this didn't go so well, I got confused and it didn't come to plan, but I now knew I had to practice to perfect this. I used pearl jewellery in the hair as a lot of pearls were used during the Elizabethan times so I wanted to try to incorporate these. Next time I want to look up designs online from books to give me more ideas on what I want to achieve in my look. I will section my hair this will make my design a lot easier to do, to give myself structure. It was however, fun learning about what they did with their hair, how immaculate their hair was; I am interested to further my designs and do good research for inspirations. 

A few more..

I like the drapping of the pearls, which I will take along with me on my other designs, but I need more structure with my design, sectioning and planning it out for next lesson. To also practice and to become inspired with research.

Use of accessories used in the hair during the Elizabethan times and today

I used and practiced with the pearls in the hair because of seeing portraits of women in the Elizabethan time and how they would cover their hair with semi-precious gems, stones and pearls and wanted to incorporate this into my design some how, so I was figuring out and practising with fake pearls to symbolise this. 

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/lindsay-mannering/a-brief-history-of-matern_b_156618.html

I found these images that show pearls, stones and gems in the hair and how elaborate they would make their hair. They would do this to make their hair attractive, they enjoyed experimenting with luxurious, expensive accessories because the wealthy and royalty could afford such luxuries and why not use them in their hair to reflect their wealth and royalty status; it makes others become very engaged with their hair and draws focus to the elaborate hair styles. I believe it also made others such as the less fortunate envious of their hair and people would look up to these wealthy women and would want to be them.

http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/miniature-portraits-hans-holbein.html

Elizabeth I- 1590-1600

Another image of a prime example of Queen Elizabeth I with semi-precious gems, stones and other accessories that would be considered expensive and luxury items used in her hair. It was seen the more they had in their hair the wealthier they were, the use of these made a bold statement to others.

http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/miniature-portraits-hans-holbein.html

A Lady in Masquerade costume 1610

Pearls used dangling from the hair design and I love how they are dangling from the hair line and the ears and how equally placed the accessories are to one another.

http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/miniature-portraits-hans-holbein.html

Another image of pearls and stone used in the hair to elaborate and make the design bolder, reflecting wealth and royalty.

http://labelleotero.tumblr.com/post/83622713341/una-lady-italiana-vivienne-westwood-1997-by

I found a great example of Vivienne Westwood with a Elizabethan hair design with the use of the tight curls shaped in a rounded way with the use of pearls pinned in at the top of the hair, with the feather hat placed at the back. 

https://www.colourbox.com/image/red-hair-duchess-in-red-dress-and-jabot-in-ancient-abbey-image-5731520

Another image of pearls used in a modern way with the hair structure shaped in a heart shaped Elizabethan way. I love how the pearls are draped over one side of the buns to add a different twist on the look, making it more contemporary with a edgy approach.

Incorporating ribbon and twisted buns into my design

Front angle

Creating a crown like effect with small buns and with twisty materials, used gold to represent the colours of wealth. I had this idea in my head but felt it was very hard to get each plaited bun even, as I wanted them all to represent a crown. 

Twisted buns to symbolise a crown, testing and practicing different designs.

When I started my first lesson I had no clue how to do a french plait, where I felt a bit embarrassed but everyone has to start somewhere, but as I practiced I got better and I am slowly getting the hang of it. I felt the positioning of your fingers was the hardest part once I got that part it all went smoothly.

As you can see in my photograph above, it has dramatically improved which I was happy about. A lot of plait work was used during the Elizabethan period and I feel it would be ideal to incorporate plaits in my design to also show my improvement and confidence with doing them as weeks go by.

                                           http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizface2.htm

I got my inspiration from portraits and accessories within Elizabethan times, especially this one in particular. I wanted to incorporate a head piece but with the use of buns across the hair line and with the ribbon to wrap around them to give a different but modern approach. During the Elizabethan times ribbon and accessories were used a lot to show wealth and they enjoyed making the look extravagant.